Tormach CNC Lathe Boring & ID Turning! Widget68

1. I NOTICED YOU HAVE YOUR BORING BAR HANGING OUT FARTHER THAN YOU NEED YOU SHOULD SHORTEN THEM AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE ALSO GO INTO YOUR WIRING CABINET AND CHECK FOR LOOSE WIRES IN THE BUS BAR THIS CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO NOT HOLD TIGHT TOLERANCES

2. When customer submits a part and does not include their own tolerances, do you specify in your contract in that case a standard policy of what tolerance they will receive? I have been on the engineering end of things for my career, but we were schooled to include tolerances on anything important and exclude them on anything not based on the price factor. We are still schooled today that adding tolerances adds cost especially flatness tolerances.
   For you machinists out there who think engineers don't give consideration to every facet of the machining process, some of us do. There are good and bad professionals in machining and engineering. I personally believe, and evidently the manufacturing community disagrees with me, that every engineer should be required to build and test hands on everything they design before any consideration is given to production. In the case of consumer goods, and appliances etc, they should have to take one home and use it for a month before submitting it for production. I can say with confidence and experience, attitudes and work methods would change.

3. that boring bar looks loose in that toolholder

4. It turns out ID Turning / Boring videos are quite hard to find on YouTube…. Thanks for this one.

5. Are you still having issues holding proper tolerance? I have this lathe and turret and I'm having issues. I have noticed, the people using gang tooling get good tolerance and the people with turrets struggle. Something to do with the turret? Take a closer look at the part off in this video.

6. Any suggestions how to bore out a timing pulley without taking the flanges off???

7. Apart from pushing the tool more and harder (which might help) you might want to try a specific aluminium geometry insert like Sandvik Coromant CCGX. They really do wonders even on manual machines.

8. Are you going to be making any more videos of the 440, really interested in that machine

9. I noticed that the boring bar deflection was massive, probably when it hit the bottom of the bore. Was it because of insufficient bar rigidity, some issues with the setup, or a mistake in the cam?

10. Loving this channel 😉 I am buy no means an expert but I hear you mention tolerances and I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this but try running the machine again with the coolant on. After running that large drill through, the heat will have made the material grow slightly and then shrink when cooled causing the tolerance issue. Of course I understand the coolant is off for video purposes 😉

    Keep up the great work 😉 Certainly been helping me grow as well 🙂

11. One problem I see is that you rough and fine cut the outer diameter and then drill it.
    It is a big chance that the material change shape when doing so.
    Rough cut – Drill – Fine cut.

    I do a lot of big parts in Super-Alloys like Super-Duplex and when working with those parts the process is.
    Rough all dimensions – Put part away for 24 hours – Fine.
    A 500mm part usually expands about 0.6 mm/0.023" after Roughing + Hold time.

12. The only thing i would suggest for turning aluminum which you seem to do a lot of is investing in a DNMG tool holder (unless you already have one). The 55° insert angle should just better at cutting aluminum than a normal 80° insert i know this also depends on what insert your using and what not. I just know from personal use that 55° inserts just seem to cut really soft metal like aluminum and brass better than the 80° inserts. Also the 55° inserts are actually really sturdy compared to say the vnmg style inserts, so you can actually rough a part out with a 55° and finish with V-style insert or how ever you want to do it.

13. How much does one of these machines cost? It would seem out of the reach of most guys.

14. Am I correct in assuming that you're making a collar for an Ops Inc can? That's what that reminds me of, except they're normally steel.

15. Very nice 🙂

    Push the roughing harder to break the chip. Proper insert geometry also helps. I like Iscar CNMG 431-NG (the 431 is insert size so yours might be different).

    Definitely spot drill if you can. Also check the center heights on the gang post…even the "bigass" drill looked like it wandered a bit.

    I think your parting tool is above centerline. It appeared to climb a bit. Check out http://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/ for some excellent gadgets for setup.

    Have you considered a fogbuster for the lathe? You do alot of dry turning in aluminum and I think the same setup as your mill might help without blasting the camera with coolant.

    Gotta watch what you leave for a finishing pass on a flat bottom with that particular tool geometry. In many cases, it's a good idea to finish from centerline out to avoid trapping the chips behind the cut. Also a weird quirk…sometimes finishing from bottom out on the side walls can eliminate chatter.

    Keep on turnin!

16. Just some food for thought for odd ball diameters you could by an emergency 5C collet and bore it to whatever diameter you need.

17. on your channel plays a pedophile's music, you're the victim?you dressed in lingerie?

18. How do you like the shars mikes?

19. Have you tried machining a chamfer or a radius with your parting tool? Part in, then chamfer, then finish parting.

20. way cool Wednesday widget, thanks and Happy holiday!

21. And still doesn't know how to use the micrometer right…! USE THE SMALL KNOB!

22. You must separate operations. First rough received and finish. For each must be added for turning or milling. When the final process outer diameter hole should have been drilled already. This ensures precise workpiece.

23. Gotta push that roughing tool harder, to let the chip breaker on the insert actually break a chip.

    Being conservative on your feeds and speeds here is screwing you vis a vis chip control on your OD turning.

    You'll find that your dimensions are easier to hit too, if you control the chip better (reduces bar and tool deflection).

    Also, if the absolute position, ID, or concentricity on that thru hole matters (needs to be held to a specific tolerance of just a few thou), I'd suggest spotting it first, 'cause you could see, even with the naked eye, that the drill wandered like a lost puppy while starting that hole.

    Otherwise though, good video. It's aggravating my itch for a slant bed lathe though . . .

24. cool video.

25. That was great, but it looked to me like you needed to use a center drill first to get that first drill to start straight. It also seemed like the cutoff tool was cutting in the wrong position which didn't allow the hole to go all the way through and left a step on the end of the part. Still a great tutorial.

26. Question, is the tolerance always off 1 thou in the same direction? Is it consistent being undersize? Could you add a compensation thou to the dimension to comp?

27. that 60fps man. wow.

28. Is it just me, or was there a bit of wobble in that thru hole? Is that because the stock was slightly out of alignment, or the drill was too big at first pass, or just me having bad eyes?

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