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Saturday, September 23, 2023
HomeCNC LatheModernising a Schaublin CNC lathe with LinuxCNC- Ep.46

Modernising a Schaublin CNC lathe with LinuxCNC- Ep.46


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Mounting the air preparation on the wall. This used to be in the base of the Schaublin, but I needed that space for electronics.
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This is the four relay board:
…and the encoders I will be using on the control panel:
00:00 – Intro
00:18 – Pneumatic supply mount plate
01:14 – X-axis motor cover
04:29 – E-Stop switch
07:11 – Fitting the cover
08:18 – Pneumatic back plate
09:57 – Thrust reverser
10:24 – Mail time
11:56 – Installing the air supply module
13:25 – Turning spacers
16:51 – Final installation



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  1. "They used to be in the control cabinet – then I cut it down and added more electronics, so now they go on the wall". Gold!

    I was also slightly surprised to learn that "drilling" the spot welds out involved the angle grinder… but on the other hand, I guess there is few jobs that the grinder can't do.

  2. Hi Mark with the regulators, etc hanging from the wall ,will you be installing connectors on the wires and air lines?

    In the last video, in the discussions about collet closer logic, i forgot to mention that its traditional to have a pair
    of proximity switches to confirm chuck open and chuck closed. these are mounted on adjustable plates for fine tuning.
    If you ever did what to bar feed, these become manditory. (they really are mandatory regardless)
    Image search" kitagawa cylinder with sensors " for examples.

  3. Fascinating to see that view of the thrust reverser. If you ever decided to – hypothetically speaking, of course – start a second aero-related channel, I would be an avid subscriber! Thanks for all you share. I really enjoy your videos.

  4. Great music this week. Metal for angry grinding. Soothing for manual turning. Dumb de do de dar for mounting air bits n bobs.
    Just how I feel when doing similar jobs.
    Cheers for your efforts to entertain us.

  5. A lot of people are commenting on how great the stop motion was, and it was great, but what I really like about this video is that you use a guard on your angle grinder.
    Also: for spot welds, they make special drill bits- think something ground like an endmill, but with a pilot point in the middle to keep it centered. It probably wouldn’t be too hard to grind one and would probably only take twice the time it did to grind out the welds.

  6. Yikes mate, those walls suffered water damage in their history… I have been working on a few houses and basements especially – that needed fixing after being flooded, the european construction, not mdf, drywall nonsense… And i dealt with exactly that structure and texture of the cement and bubbling paint and plaster… A pipe bursts in house, or a mains cracks and flood the street, making a mess of basements, and it looked exactly like this, and it took a lot of work to get the walls to not look like what yours look, water damaged concrete(as much as that makes little sense, but it does, as once cured, soaking in rusty water doesnt help wall integrity)… I would call a friend, if you have one, who is a licensed engineer and deals with structural integrity of buildings and such, a statics engineer i guess would be english for it, and have them look around the place and give you their view and examination of the structural integrity, as if you call one on a official visit from a non friend, you might get into shit, depending on the country… Check them walls out, bad walls are just waiting to crumble, and a strong earthquake might just dicker them… Make sure that damage isnt too deep… And that those walls arent just waiting to crumble into rabble and obliterate you and your machines… Machine work especially can be bad in such a scenario, as machines generate quite the vibration that does not benefit even a healthy wall, let alone a bad wall… Im not saying this as a diss, its just loving advice from a fellow machinist who in his time fixed up a few places to be sold quickly and not look like this, for there is no curing a bad wall, you can only mask it for decades if it is good enough not to start crumbling and breaking out from the mask… Or, you can knock it down, supporting the rooms above it with steel pillars and rebuild the whole wall, but you have a lot more than one wall in this and similar state, from what i can see from your videos… I never said anything about it, but now that i see it up close… Call a friend, better safe than sorry… Or make a quick friend by bribing a guy who does it to come off the record and advise you…

  7. Nice to see the progress so far. I don't own a lathe (yet), but when I need spacers for some non-heavy-duty jobs I go for 3D printer, which is amazing for making stuff like brackets and spacers. To make spacers, it takes about 5-7 minutes tops (firing up FreeCAD, simple sketch, extrude, export result, fire up Cura, import saved spacers, adjust number of copies, send to printer). The print itself takes way more, but you're input is not needed during a print.

  8. One trick I learned from Quinn: before cutting off your spacers completely, take a triangular file and deburr or chamfer (you know, those separate us from the animals) the left and right shoulder in one go.

  9. The Industrial Keyboard especially caught my eye.

    If I have seen right, it is from NSI like the KST-102? Do you remember the pricing?

    Currently working on my "Technikerprojekt" which is building an operator panel for my CNC Mill.

  10. I have really enjoyed watching your videos become higher and higher quality each and every time. Also really love the random aircraft facts, already excited for next weeks video!

  11. Just wondering if you speak only English there? When I speak German with customers here in Germany, they often ask if I'm from England or The Netherlands… The looks I get when I say Florida is priceless! (Why would anyone from Florida want to live in Germany?)

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