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Wednesday, October 4, 2023
HomeMini CNC MachineDIY mini CNC machine part 13 (wet 'n wild + acrylic cuts)

DIY mini CNC machine part 13 (wet 'n wild + acrylic cuts)


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  1. hiya, watched all your cnc videos as im undertaking my own. VERY helpful and they will prove invaluable when i come to put mine together. Quick question! Do you know the amp and torque rating of the steppers you started with, and what you upgraded to on the Z axis? many thanks!

  2. add a copper ground from the Aluminum plate to ground and then add a second copper ground with a small 10up cap to ground. If that doese not work, add a grounded copper box around the brains.

  3. The reason you are having "interference" is those cheap chinese spindles (inventables quiet cut is the same thing) use a rubber boot to separate the spindle bearings from the spindle housing, effectively turning the entire thing into a horrible EMI antenna, and adding quite a bit of run out into the spindle.

    Best solution is three fold.
    1) Replace the wiring from the controls to the spindle with double shielded wire.
    2) Ground the shielding at the same ground for the rest of the electronics
    3) Open the spindle, and replace the back bearing (side without the collet chuck) rubber boot with a copper sleeve, ensuring the fit so as the bearing needs to be press fit in.

    This will solve quite a lot of the EMI issues you're having from the spindle, as well as allow you to use the spindle, and it's bit as a probe 🙂

  4. If you are using brushed motor, you are getting hf rf noise on your data lines. Put a small ceramic capacitor at the motor end across the wires, in parallel with motor. Cant remember the value.. 0.01uf i think is good, different values will suppress different rf noise freqs..

  5. I'm just getting started and I built my own machine, however I need to find Cam software to work with the Mach3 software that I have and would like to know the process you use? I may have missed it in some other video so forgive me if so.
    Ps if possible email me the gcode for the plastic box so I can try it . thanks

  6. A peristaltic pump would allow you to exactly control the water rate, probably could produce enough pressure to have a spray nozzle at the end and get extra good coverage for dust

  7. Sorry if I've missed your explanation, but soaking MDF board is not a good idea. Do you have any plans waterproofing the board? Or simply replace it from time to time?

  8. @iforce2d I have no idea at all if this idea may work to solve your COM issue, but it might be worth a try:

    Maybe ditch direct USB connection to the Arduino. Use one of those cheap UART serial to bluetooth modules, hookup the TX and RX of it to the Arduino, and use Bluetooth to connect it to the ChiliPeper software on your laptop. Surley any recent-ish laptop has Bluetooth built-in, and if yours doesn't, tiny USB bluetooth adapters are pretty cheap. I sorta feel like removing the complicated and finicky USB connection entirely would solve the issue. I doubt the spindle would introduce any noise near 2.4 Ghz to mess with Bluetooth communications, plus, that means you can movie the laptop wherever you want.

    Just a thought though.

  9. That stopping is annoying. Could be RF, could be noise in the lines, but a long shot is that the wires to the stepper stuff might too small to provide enough power and it faults out. It's probably still noise so shield everything and ferrite core everything.

  10. If you're only looking to cut cf sheets you might be over thinking the water flow system. When I've seen cf cut via cnc they just used the sides like you built on your table and filled with water to just above the top of the cf sheet. This keeps the dust captured which to my understanding is the main issue.

  11. Moving the power supply for the motor around won't do much when you create the noise at the spindle motor which is right where the steppers are as well. You should solve the noise problem (assuming that really is the problem) not by trying to prevent it from getting it into something else, but by preventing noise in the first place. A shielded cable will help against radiated noise, but it won't do much if you already have the noise in your system!
    Put a small ceramic cap (100nF) accross the terminals right at the motor. You can also add two additional caps (47nF) from each terminal of the motor to the case and put inductors (a few mH) in series with the motor's wires (all as close to the motor as possible). Look up motor filter circuit. If that does not help at all, your problem is somewhere else and not the spindle motor IMHO.
    Also the wires to your steppers don't seem to have any filtering on them. Wrap each one around a ferrite close to the Arduino board. This will prevent at least a little noise coming from the frame into the Arduino.
    Check the 5V at the Arduino. Quite often laptops are a little bit on the "weak" side and if you have a crappy USB cable it might get even worse. An additional filter cap there can't hurt either. You might want to run the Arduino on a battery as well and not power it by USB (no problem to have both connected).
    If your frame is "floating" (meaning not connected to anything electrically even through the motors), it might also help to ground the frame.

    Btw. you could drive the pump with PWM (because there isn't enough noise in the system already 😉 ). This will allow you to run it much slower than you will be able to with a constant voltage.

  12. +iforce2d just a thought, are you sure you have stable power(enough current?
    i had a similar problem with my 3d printer and i figured out that i had to raise the output of the power supply 0.5 volt. never had a problem since. i found out by logging the voltage while running the printer and discovered that when i was running it full out the voltage was quite low and it just needed a little wall power drop to get to low. since i live at an end of the power line i occasionally have small dips in the power to my house and that was enough for the arduino based comtroller to loose data and reset.

  13. nice video as usual! I think using shielded cables for the spindle motor itself might actually be a a good idea! You should also consider cutting carbon fibre completely immersed in water, instead of pouring water while cutting (if I understood your intentions right). Joop Brokking has a nice video on it!

  14. The difference in position between screen and cutter is because the software shows what gcode is sent to the mill. The mill still has to process, there is a buffer. You didn't loose any steps!

  15. Nice video, really like the acrylic cut outs. Are you going to mount some leds and illuminate them?

    Just one concern about the water, won't it damage the MDF base board?


  16. That spindlemotor has given you so much trouble… Hopefully the brushless one will solve all your trouble!
    Also i am really lookinf forward the the next update. Is your sacreficial plate fixed with through holes? or did you drill blind holes? You would not want to have ot slowly leak through the threads and seep into the neopren foam 🙂

  17. I thought this is one of those "simple" mods that will only take a few minutes… YEAH, RIGHT!
    Depending on how much you turn on the tap, your drain diameter may be too small. The water flowing in has some pressure behind it, created by the height of the supply tank, whereas the water flowing out has none.

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