Routers are amazingly handy for so many things and when you add some router jigs, it makes the wood router even more useful, and in this case a shop-made jig, that can do Fluting, Dados, Stop and Start Dados, Rabbets and even Wainscotting, is a valuable router jig to have around the woodworking shop and if you have wood router that takes both 1/4 inch and 1/2 collets, you will have a whole host of router bits to many different kinds of router jobs with this straight edge jig.
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Finger joint router bits: https://youtu.be/hrxftlIpqBI
Self centering mortise router jig: https://youtu.be/O5cD0QpYu3c
5 Essential wood router bits: https://youtu.be/WLpd3YebeLw
Mini router table for trim router: https://youtu.be/HyUGlbj272
Router Jointer Jig – How to Joint Wood Without a Jointer https://youtu.be/g8pVGyFu6PQ
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Colon if you wax your wood you will have less drag. Just figured I throw that idea at ya.
Hi Colin, I have a Makita DRT50 doesn't have a rounded base. Will this make any difference?
Wow very simple to make, loos like i will have another jig to use
love mustard. great work
Nice jig and easy to make , love your videos' they are very informative . With a little brain power you can make most tools for your workshop, keep them coming!!!
You can find 1/4" – 20 toilet flange bolts.
Make me one and ship it to me I can pay you with PayPal. Thanks, Tom
Thanks for sharing. I loved the design and functionality of the jig. One question, though. Would you consider using 3/4 plywood for the base and place two sections of T tract, instead of drilling two series of holes that allow the adjustment of the stoppers? Thankx again for sharing.
I havent read all the comment but the concept you are trying to say in the start was when you have the route running aligned to the straight edge there is a line contact and when you have it aligned on the circular side its a point contact. A point contact is always better because any point on the circle is tangent to the guide edge. In other words, in a circle you can put any point tangent to the edge you center of the circle remains the same as long as your edge remains the same. If that makes sense
I want to bring this to your attention. Regarding safety, you mentioned ear protection and safety glasses but not mask. I had conversations with my dentist yesterday. I mentioned my wood shop. His reply wear a mask. Then mentioned that his cousin died of sinus cancer 15 years ago. He spent many hours after work everyday making furniture. He was good at it. But never wore a mask.
I made 1 of these based on your design Colin, the first identical to yours (which works great) and intend to make another two fences where I will trim the edge by the bit with the router ( a 10mm and a 12mm respectively in my case) these will be marked specifically one for a 10mm and the other for the 12mm, the routed edge should allow easy alignment to a mark without having to work out the bit offset and may also act as a splinter edge, it will make them a 'one trick pony' as they are only for use with their respective size bits
Thanks Collin for sharing. I've learnt a lot from you. Btw, nice holder for your bit huh… a mahjong tiles
As always thanks Colin.
Hi Colin,
Why didn’t you use a flat washer under the wing nut to better secure the connection ?
Bob
Thanks for this video Collin. It's going to be great for me if I can pull it off. Thanks again. What do you think about a continuous groove instead the series of holes for the stop.
I like it, but how about extending the bottom out further with a gap for the router bit to run. This would then give you more support front and back of the router?
I assume the width of the bottom bored will Bart based on the width of the base of the router?
Great videos, Colin. Just one question about this one… why did you decide to rout slots into the two stops and drill a series of holes in the back plate, rather than drilling a single hole in each stop and two long slots in the black plate?
So what kind of jig do I need for my router to make some grooves in 4×4 ? I saw too much videos and I am confused. I want to make cell phone holder . can you share a link ?
Another great Video Colin, Just thinking, We could just screw the stops any where, To save making slots ?, Thanks.
You make a good point about using the curve of the router instead of the flat.
It's on my to make list. Thanks ?
This is a great Idea. Thanks! I was thinking a couple scrap t-slot tracks would serve better here then the through holes.
Great video. Can’t wait to make it.
Thanks a lot just finished mine all from your help appreciate it.
Could a t track be used instead of drilling holes?
Wowsa! The best ideas are always simple
Awsome mate great job thanks . Joe
Hi Colin. Might I suggest shortening the bolts? Their length looks like they would be a hazard to your hands. And possibly using knobs instead of wingnuts, although wingnuts are easy to use, and are less expensive than knobs. Oh yes, and flat washers to spread the force of the wingnuts over a larger area, the stop pieces would last longer.
This is a very well designed and useful jig. Thanks.
How about some ideas for some easy to make Christmas gifts?
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Hi Colin, I'm going to make one of these, but instead of drilling holes in the lower plate, I was thinking of using my router to cut a T-slot the full length of the lower plate, then instead of cutting slots in the stop blocks, just drilling a hole in each one and using the bolts with the heads inserted into the T-slot, with wing nuts locking the stop blocks in place. Being a "newbie", I wanted to ask if you foresee any problems I might create in doing that?
I really like that jig. Thank you for the great content and production quality. ????
Where did the 4 7/8 measurement come from? Base?