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HomeWood RoutersAdjustable Straight Edge Jig for your Wood Router for Fluting, Dados, Rabbets...

Adjustable Straight Edge Jig for your Wood Router for Fluting, Dados, Rabbets & more!


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Routers are amazingly handy for so many things and when you add some router jigs, it makes the wood router even more useful, and in this case a shop-made jig, that can do Fluting, Dados, Stop and Start Dados, Rabbets and even Wainscotting, is a valuable router jig to have around the woodworking shop and if you have wood router that takes both 1/4 inch and 1/2 collets, you will have a whole host of router bits to many different kinds of router jobs with this straight edge jig.

Finger joint router bits: https://youtu.be/hrxftlIpqBI
Self centering mortise router jig: https://youtu.be/O5cD0QpYu3c
5 Essential wood router bits: https://youtu.be/WLpd3YebeLw
Mini router table for trim router: https://youtu.be/HyUGlbj272
Router Jointer Jig – How to Joint Wood Without a Jointer https://youtu.be/g8pVGyFu6PQ
#straightedgejig #workworkingjig #routerjig

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  1. Thanks for sharing. I loved the design and functionality of the jig. One question, though. Would you consider using 3/4 plywood for the base and place two sections of T tract, instead of drilling two series of holes that allow the adjustment of the stoppers? Thankx again for sharing.

  2. I havent read all the comment but the concept you are trying to say in the start was when you have the route running aligned to the straight edge there is a line contact and when you have it aligned on the circular side its a point contact. A point contact is always better because any point on the circle is tangent to the guide edge. In other words, in a circle you can put any point tangent to the edge you center of the circle remains the same as long as your edge remains the same. If that makes sense

  3. I want to bring this to your attention. Regarding safety, you mentioned ear protection and safety glasses but not mask. I had conversations with my dentist yesterday. I mentioned my wood shop. His reply wear a mask. Then mentioned that his cousin died of sinus cancer 15 years ago. He spent many hours after work everyday making furniture. He was good at it. But never wore a mask.

  4. I made 1 of these based on your design Colin, the first identical to yours (which works great) and intend to make another two fences where I will trim the edge by the bit with the router ( a 10mm and a 12mm respectively in my case) these will be marked specifically one for a 10mm and the other for the 12mm, the routed edge should allow easy alignment to a mark without having to work out the bit offset and may also act as a splinter edge, it will make them a 'one trick pony' as they are only for use with their respective size bits

  5. Great videos, Colin. Just one question about this one… why did you decide to rout slots into the two stops and drill a series of holes in the back plate, rather than drilling a single hole in each stop and two long slots in the black plate?

  6. So what kind of jig do I need for my router to make some grooves in 4×4 ? I saw too much videos and I am confused. I want to make cell phone holder . can you share a link ?

  7. Hi Colin. Might I suggest shortening the bolts? Their length looks like they would be a hazard to your hands. And possibly using knobs instead of wingnuts, although wingnuts are easy to use, and are less expensive than knobs. Oh yes, and flat washers to spread the force of the wingnuts over a larger area, the stop pieces would last longer.

  8. Hi Colin, I'm going to make one of these, but instead of drilling holes in the lower plate, I was thinking of using my router to cut a T-slot the full length of the lower plate, then instead of cutting slots in the stop blocks, just drilling a hole in each one and using the bolts with the heads inserted into the T-slot, with wing nuts locking the stop blocks in place. Being a "newbie", I wanted to ask if you foresee any problems I might create in doing that?

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